The Bucket List Item that Almost Didn't Happen

 

First time Angie and I get to see the Big Ditch

This wee adventure has been on my mind and my adventure bucket list ever since I heard that there was this thing called Rim to Rim (aka R2) a few years ago. R2 involves traversing the Grand Canyon trails North to South or South to North. On the North side there is one main trail head called North Kaibab and on the south side are two main trail heads, named South Kaibab and Bright Angel. While following several FaceBook groups over the years I learned about Rim to Rim to Rim (R3) which is running from one side to the other and then back. I have read hints that R5 and R7 are also a "thing". Not for this guy though. R3 is daunting enough.

Trail Enthusiats for Burning River (TEFBR)

In September of 2021 my favorite local trail running group, the Trail Enthusiasts for Burning River (TEFBR), posted an event for R3 for April 2nd of 2022. Heck yay!!! I was so excited to see this that I did not hesitate to jump on board. This was a perfect opportunity to check off a long-time bucket list items of mine and to do so with a few of my running friends. At this time I was still recovering several serious running related injuries but I was confident that if I staying the course I could be ready to go by April. Angie gave me the green light in December when she figured out the logistics and booked our hotel room and my new running coach Sarah Forman from Team RunRun thought that this was totally within my reach. #stoked

Near the end of 2020 it's safe to say that I over did things with ultra running and racing and literally broke myself. It's been a struggle to get back to where I want to be. The training progressed, albeit slowly (and rightfully so), and I continued to build not only by running but hiking a number of miles during the winter months. Now, I'm not a patient person when it comes to training, so hiking is not exactly my cup of tea. I see hiking as just walking on trails, however, it was a great option for me to add time on my feet with none of the high impact forces placed on my body when running. There were so evening hikes in the cold, blustery winter Ohio weather when I would have much rather been in my warm cozy home. This winter Ohio has seen more than it's fair share of snow which makes hiking difficult and downright treacherous at times. I purchased a pair of snow shoes so I that I had no excuses to not get out for my planned hikes. The snow shoes worked great, but it still wasn't running. 

Somewhere along the line the old me sort of took control of my brain and began making slight tweaks to my running and hiking plan. On a particular uncommonly warm morning when I had a run and a hike planned, I sandwiched the hike in between the running miles. I mean ... why not? This would be great training for R3 because I knew full well that I would be running and hiking on and off. Not only did I make this subtle adjustment but during the hike I realized that I could do a slow jog instead of just hiking. What possible harm could this do? My heartrate was low therefore the impact must be low and it couldn't possibly nearly as harmful as full on running. Long story short (ish), I continued to work in more and more jogging during my hikes and would slowly stretch out some of the runs by a mile or two. The final straw was about one month prior to April 2nd when I ran a half marathon, on ice, with new spikes that I had never run with before, and doing hill repeats (more than was planned by coach). I hiked the following day and felt something wasn't quite right but figured I just tired and I could shake it off. The following Monday was the last run I was able to complete before having to pull the plug on any running. Left hip flexor and adductor muscle strains hit me hard for a third time since late 2020. Meh.

One month out from R3 and I was down for the count. No running, very little hiking, and very low easy miles on the bike which to me meant that my fitness was tanking hard. Not good for a exercise addicted junky. I sunk into a dark hole for a few weeks. I pulled away from all social media. I messaged several friends that I would not be able to help pace at their races this year. I messaged friend Bob Smaltz that I had to bail on R3. I just could not see any light through the darkness and figured I needed to pull the plug on R3 and stop giving myself false hope of even starting. This stuff is tough to deal with when you love it so damn hard. It's the old saying, when you cannot do something, then that is all you want to do and all you can think about.

Once I had made the decision to bail on R3, my head cleared up. The focus was just on having a great time with my wife/BFF in Arizona. Neither of us had seen the Grand Canyon much less traveled anywhere new since covid-19 took much of our "normal lives" and stomped them into oblivion. Angie, the logistics genius that she is, planned a couple days in Holbrook (Route 66, Painted Desert, Petrified Forest), a day in Flagstaff (Lowell Observatory), and a final destination to the Grand Canyon to check out the big ditch. As the days passed by the pain I had ben experiencing all but vanished. I was hiking again, but still not running. So naturally my head started spinning again, giving myself some small bits of hope. Maybe I can do a few miles of the trail, to maybe I can hike the 7-miles to the Colorado River and hike back to the top, to maybe I can just hike the crap out of entire R3. The last weekend before we left for AZ I did a 3-hour hike in my beloved CVNP and cleared 11-miles. I felt great and it hit the fast forward button in my head that I stood a chance to get some pretty good miles in on R3. Once again I was finding my way to my happy place.

Angie and I flew into Phoenix on a Tuesday and did all the wonderful things that she had planned. It was absolutely the most fantastic time to spend with one another. We discovered some great little restaurants along the way, one of which is Brandy's Restaurant & Bakery in Flagstaff. If you have never been, then you seriously must go.  Such a great local find!! On Friday morning, we left Flagstaff and headed to the Grand Canyon. After figuring out what's what and which shuttle we needed to board, we headed over to the South Kaibab TH. Our mouths just dropped at the incredible site and magnificence that its the Grand Canyon. Words simply do not exist to describe the Grand Canyon. There is no doubt in my mind why it is one of the seven great wonders of the world. I could stare into the canyon for days on end and never get tired of it.

Excited to get onto the trail, ok maybe I was a tad more excited than Angie, we loaded up our gear and started down South Kaibab. It was immediately apparent that this is no CVNP trail. Shear drop offs everywhere you turn. Trail features that require 100% of your attention. I tend not to be the most graceful runner, when I am actually running, so perhaps the injury setback was a blessing in disguise. I had to go slow and hike not only due to recovering from the injury, but for self preservation. The views kept us stopping to look around to try and take it all in while not risking taking a step in the wrong direction. We made our way to Ooh Ahh Point, .9 miles into SK. It did not disappoint and is an obvious hot spot for those wanting to catch some for the best views. At this point, I was beyond excited for taking a shot at the full monty of R3 the following day. Stupid nervous of course at the possibility of pain encroaching on my fun, so I tried my best to stay cautiously optimistic.

Saturday morning rolled in fast. Didn't sleep well, par for the course, and figured I snagged four hours of sleep and four hours of counting ways that this whole thing could go south on me. I prepared well for the day. I knew my nutrition plan. I knew where all of the available water sources resided along the trail, both man made and natural. I knew all distances between the available water. I had a pack that had the necessary capacity, a Garmin Inreach tracker, plenty of food options and sour stomach aids, layered clothing, trekking poles, and an unstoppable motivation and desire to complete R3. Bring it on!!

While the morning was a little chaotic, with trying to get everyone to the trail head and make sure cars and rides were available when folks finished, it all got sorted. We started in two groups with the folks wanting to go slower either due to injury or self-preservation and the faster group heading out once the last couple of runners made it to the start. My plan was to hike as far as I could until I started to feel any pain and then head back. Or if everything feels good, by some miracle, I would hike all the way to the North Kaibab TH and once back at the bottom of North Kaibab and if I was feeling really good, only then would I take a shot at some easy jogging. The original objective was to run R3 but this would be the next best thing. 

As we headed out onto the trail, with fresh legs, fully loaded packs, and the stoke level at 150% I knew the first few miles of the trail would be slow going. Everyone was cautious and taking their time. This wasn't a race and there was no need to precariously blast down the trails and take unnecessary risks. I stopped to capture the moment a few times with my phone camera. It was surreal that I was finally attempting R3. The Grand Canyon was jaw dropping, larger than life itself, masterfully created, the most beautiful place on earth, and as Todd Jaros so eloquently stated, “a trail runners playground”. I think that is the perfect description.

I stuck to my plan even though it meant doing 90% of R3 on my own. I have daemons to slay and a drive to get back to where my heart has been for years, ultra trail running. I spent 95% of my day only hiking and “maybe” 5% light jogging. 

We descended South Kaibab Trail starting at 5am, were greeted with the most beautiful sun rise and landscape views that just make you want to sit and gaze out all day long, and reached the Colorado River at the bottom.  Passing thru Phantom Ranch I refilled my water bladder, ate more food, and headed along the North Kaibab Trail wondering if and when my injury would make an appearance and force me to make the hard decision that many of the ultra running community loathe, to turn back and not finish the full Monty.

The injury made a short and ever so subtle attempt at keeping me away from my love and maybe I was just too lost in the moment to care or feel it’s wrath but as soon as it appeared while at the bottom of the canyon it just as quickly gave way to my passion and motivation to reach the top of the North Rim. 

Supai Tunnel 

I took so many pictures, chatted with anyone who would listen, and had the biggest smile on my face as I wound up the countless switchbacks, passed the Manzanita (Pump Station) refilling my water bladder, getting passed by less than five runners that showed the beauty and power of ultra running, gave encouragement to anyone that was struggling, used my trekking poles to help reduce some of the load off my legs, begged that my fingers now looking like mini-sausages was not the start of hyponatremia (I felt fine), and finally reached the North Rim. Now at 21 (or 24??) miles in, with no support (this is an unsupported event), the North Rim being closed this time of year, fatigue setting in the legs, the daunting task of making the return trip was at hand. I took a few minutes, repacked my trekking poles, ate some food, drank some water (albeit conservatively until Manzanita) and headed down. My time to the North Rim was 7-hours and 15-minutes. Remember, this was all hiking. I never ran a single step to this point.

Heading up to the North Rim.

Down is harder on the legs than up, but for some reason, whatever that may be I felt absolutely incredible. Granted I was hiking, but I felt like I could run and literally fly down the 13+ miles to the bottom. The best part and the most rewarding of the descent was getting to see my friends scaling the climb and seeing friendly faces. I don’t remember everyone I saw, but I do know that seeing them gave me an even larger smile as I descended. I did my best to give everyone encouragement and a bit if info on the vert left to ascend and all seemed appreciative. Got word that some turned back early so my hope was to see them along the way back.

Filled my water up at Manzanita, got to jog on/off a few times when the terrain flattened out (this was a gift to myself and hey … no pain at all!!), dipped my hat/arms/legs/feet into the river a few times while making my way through “the box” and reached Phantom Ranch around 4:10pm (ten minutes late to buy that coveted lemonade … I never planned to get one though). My stomach was teetering between “ok” and stand back, she’s gonna blow but I managed to keep everything in check with water and salt caps for hours on end. I stopped eating after Manzanita (about 28-ish miles in) because I know my body and I know when things can go south quickly.

Heading back to the south rim via the Bright Angel Trail was quite the experience. I saw all sorts of critters, was treated to amazing views of the great Colorado River cutting through the mighty Grand Canyon, the not so great views of someone leaving the contents of their stomach on the trail (more than a few times), hooking up with some folks that had started around 3:30am, and the best part was seeing two friends from our running group taking a well-deserved break (Dominic and Candie). 

Finally reached Indian Gardens that was just incredibly beautiful, I did a final refill of my water knowing that there was 4.5 miles left to this amazing journey. The last 4.5 miles I was on (and under) the struggle bus. It had finally arrived. That moment when you must rely on your wits and mental strength because the energy you once had has long been sapped and now plays tricks with your head that you cannot take even one more step. I began to take more frequent breaks, hunching over with hands on my knees to support my body but never sitting down (I never sat a single time over the entire 15.5 hours) and focused solely on clawing my way to the top where my beloved Angie was nervously waiting for me with two cold cokes. 

I pulled out my headlamp, switched batteries, and pushed through the wind as it started to kick up clouds of sand and grit into my eyes. The switchbacks seemed never ending, much like my willpower, but my legs felt like they wanted to detach and beat me over my own head. Step by step, foot by foot, and inch my inch all while passing others that were humbled by this journey of a lifetime, I reached the top. 

While I was saddened that the adventure I had wanted to do for so many years was over, I was tearfully happy to see my wife. Thank you for a lifetime of memories all within a single day. 47 miles and 11.2 k of vertical ascending in 15.5 hours. BTW, I did jog if only for a few brief moments after I was at the bottom of the canyon from descending the North Kaibab trail. These were brief quarter mile, very easy peasy jogs because my body felt good and I wanted to say that I at least "ran" a small bit of the trail. Best guess is that I jogged less than two miles total. #happytrails

My gear list

• Ultraspire Summit XT (15L capacity) w/ 2L bladder (I filled it up 4-5 times)
• Hokka One One Speedgoat 4
• Hat to keep the sun out of my eyes (I don't wear sun glasses; was good to soak in the river)
• Arm warmers in the morning (temps started at 32* but didn't feel that cold)
• Sunscreen (applied before we left but never needed to reapply)
• Trekking Poles (barely used these, but I know several people swore by them)
• Garmin Inreach Mini 2 (kept tracking on and sent messages to my wife; cell coverage is poor)
• First aid stuff - bandages, band-aids, Neosporin, Tylenol, IBP (never needed any of it)
• Skratch Labs Orange x6 packets
• Salt Caps Orange (I used the entire package)
• Solid food - fig newtons, cliff bars, oatmeal (just add water), Spring Gels
• Cash, License, and Credit Card in case I needed it